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Starting on a 220 grit stone? I only do that if the edge is damaged and I have to grind out chips. If the Knife is just blunt, 1000 is a good stone to start. Just for maintaining knives that start to get dull a bit (which is most of what I do) I go to the Naniwa Aotoishi 2000 which is the best stone for maintaining a cutting edge. It doesn´t need soaking, it still works reasonably fast and it gives a near polish finish. For justr maintenance sharpening it´s all you need. Also, flattening after every use is just not neccessary.

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You never showed the result after the etching. Stupid video bro. Why would you post the entire proces and not show the result? Stupid AF

A brilliant idea has come from such a brilliant mind……….Well done Jeremy, you have given such a simple (excuse the pun) solution to us all in keeping a consistent angle when sharpening one’s knives using those Razor Sharp Wheels.

This video was amazing i flowing all the way through the beginning and the end what i liked was your video was you talked i doing att the same time it wasn't boring. I want build my own in future time from air compressor i want ask you how many hours you spent totally i really appreciate if you answered my question many thanks indeed it was a stunning video i liked. It was great jobb.

I have been hurt multiple times with wa handle dowels doing what you did at the end. One time my finger got caught between the belt and the wheel.

nice edc tool kit, but missing a Victorinox

Awesome looking rig. I just inherited a homemade offset that's about 90% done and I just putting the finishing touches on it. Can you recommend a good brand of paint that works well on cookers/pits? Thanks!

I just bought the Kadet Pro and had a bit of a problem figuring out how to assemble it all. The instructions are... ambiguous. You are an excellent instructor-it'd be cool if you made one showing how to build the thing, and properly align the angle using the new Axicube inclinometer. Thank you.

The best knife sharpening stone video I have ever seen. Perhaps you could have shown placing the knife at the 4 o'clock or 45 degree angle with respect to the stone. I learned a lot of useful tips from this video. Thank you!

I've seen a lot of 'true' Damascus that is made in large sheets and cut to shape with a plasma cutter then the bevels are ground. There is no heat treatment. I've started taking a small round jeweler's file with me to knife shows and test at the choil.

I like that, the FIZZ, I understand what yu mean, some knives give me the fizz too ;) And this one has someting to it. I will look for it in my country. Have a good WE !

Great video, sadly the Tormek KJ-45 on amazon canada is $85. I recently purchased the Magnum brand of this tool (which is exactly the same as the mastercraft one) and disappointed to have to spend another $85 just to actually use the sharpener for one of the most basic reasons.

Maybe a brine quench with 1095. 1095 needs to lose heat fast to harden optimally. The 15N20 may be insulating (holding the heat) 1095 not letting it loose heat fast enough.

I'll have to check the alloy online some time. I've been using too much spring steel.

Wonderfull job, mate

I remember it as thermal cycles interspersed with anneal and carburization. Of course, I don't often mess with Jewelry Damascus, since monosteel tends to get my signature blades to work just fine, and Damascus is pretty tough to do with the traditional small forge I have(welding temperature isn't easy in my forge lately, it's outdoors with no roof). Also, if I remember correctly, most carbon steels like to harden at much lower temperature, not quite glowing red. Check your reference guide, as I'm sure you have one.

Like the other comments, I’m guessing decarb is the issue. Go Oilers!!

I think the standing arm could also be replaced with a guiding tube, like in a piston, that stabilizes the movement. Also a heavy duty arm to hold the sandpaper might make it even easier. Some nice handles and a little mechanism to roll the sandpaper and youll never hate handsanding again. Super interesting idea.

Let me correct you. You can't heat it yet...

Hi What kind of steel is the damascus made of?

Nice smoker and ring 😉

Sorry, What is the notch you filled for? I found the channel yesterday, with the smoker video, I know nothing about knife making.

lower soak time by half, think 7 to 10 min, max temp to 830 C = 1526 F... i full time Blacksmith too to for it i sure

What oil did you use? It’s probably decarb. Decarb can be decently thick.

As follows 1650 for 15 minutes 1500 for 15 minutes 1350 15 minutes then 1450 for 15 then quench knife should go in at 1450 from cold Will give you the best results.

I'm guessing decarb, which you can usually clean up with finish grinding. I'm no master, but I've heat treated damascus at 1550F with a 10 minute soak and had good results. I think 20 minutes might be a little long, which would increase the amount of decarb you would have to grind through. Also, decarb is easily identifiable when etched

15N20 quench at 1474°F 801°c 1095 from 1454°F to 1508°F 790°c to 820°c so u r a bit over heating, assuming they were no overheat when forged welded, u have a decarb layer try with a round file on the drip breaker

Princess Auto!? Are you a fellow Manitoban?

Did you make the damascus? 15n20 & 10.. series? I typically HT at 1480 into parks 50 quench oil. I leave it in the oil, while agitating up and down for a full 5 minutes. You may have taken them out too soon and have the heat temper the hardness out. From where you are, I would certainly thermocycle before quenching again. Are you using Parks 50? I don’t recommend canola and similar oils.

One reason many of us make patterned steel out of 1084 and 15n20 is that the heat treating protocols are essentially the same for both steels. I've never had a problem with this combination.

That's weird, damascus HT is pretty similar to normal steel, except austenitizing temp should be somewere between the two steels that are used in it. What kind of steels are them ? Temp should have been provided by your supplier tho. I'm assuming that this isn't a stainless one ? 20 minutes at austenitizing temp without a stainless foil seems a lot to me, maybe that you had a decarb layer. With carbon steel I'd rather try with a 7 to 10 minutes step at temp. Hope that it'll work next time 👍

Quenching too hot. 1475 for 10" then quench

I see that the damascus blades are thin. With a 20 min soak the decarb will build up. Take them to the grinder and grind 0,5mm of the edge. It should be harden metall under the decarb :)

I DM'd you on IG Jeremy. The issue lies in the 1095, not the best choice for damascus unfortunately. That being said, you only need 1500 deg, 10-15 min soak, rapid oil quench like Parks 50 OR you can water/brine quench and say a prayer. Either way, it can be done with 1095 it's just unnecessarily difficult compared to 1084. Speaking purely from my own struggles with 1095/15N20 combos. If you want to try again, run a normalizing cycle for sure.

I think that the ribboning or chatter in the countersinks came from running the counter sink to fast. Try and run it much slower next time. 250-300rpm

Assuming you got the Damascus from a reliable and reputable supplier, and you know it is good steel (usually 1084/15N20). Then my first assumption would be you’ve got a thick layer of decarb on there! Ovens have a ton of oxygen in them with nothing to burn it up, so they decarb steel pretty efficiently. You could file on the edge for a while and see if eventually you dig deep enough to hit hard steel, or grind the decarb away. For grinding it away a good visual clue will be that if you can still see the Damascus pattern there is still some amount of decarb. If you still fail to find any hard steel under there, I’d assume bad steel. Nothing seemed wrong about your heat treat process, the temp can be somewhat of a personal preference , but 1600° with a fast quench oil should have definitely resulted in hard steel. Possibly it was still too hot when you took it from the oil? I doubt that with the thinness though. Good luck!

You heat treat only taking the core steel into account. Rest doesn't matter:)

Try austenitizing it at 1475 for 10 minutes

Are you sure you just don't have a layer of decarb? Try cleaning the blade up and file test it again.

Embrace positive affirmations and self-talk to counteract negative energy. Remind yourself of your worth, strength, and potential. You have the power to overcome.

There is a good reason I use nothing but the "easy" stainless's now (Nitro-V, 12C27, 14C28N, easy HT cycle, very reliable HT). The general hassle and unpredictability of Damascus and higher blade maintenance over time, I just could not be bothered dealing with failures with the limited hobby time I have. While I appreciate the work required to make good forge welded steels, I dont actually care for the look in working blades.

What’s the materials?

Thermocycle and quench in oil one more time, if that doesn't work try a quench in water, if that doesn't work use your new knife like objects as wall hangers or templates.

You could try using some of the leftover Damascus steel and try two or three possible heat treatments before trying the knives again.

it's interesting and a bit strange that the Damascus didn't harden. i do know that there could be issues depending on the combination of steels used to make the damascus which can cause it to not harden right, like one steels hardening temp could be way higher then the other ones or different soaking temps or HUGE amount of different reasons. personally i would just thermal cycle the knives again and try quenching the knives again but at a slightly higher temp. (sorry for adding so much lol) also would do a light grind on the knives and check the hardness again just incase decarb happened. i know it doesn't normally happen with a electric oven but you never know :)

I had this issue with some junk Damascus I bought off etsy. I knew what I was getting and wanted to see if it would even harden. It would not. Since you have an oven it's got to be the steel.

seems to me you were sold bad steel, so its not the heat treat. next time you do paterned welded knives maybe put a thick core of O-1 or something like that in the center

if it's 1084/15n20 damascus, there's no reason that shouldn't have hardened. Did you pre-heat the oil to 130F? Parks 50 I assume.

Just like you said you had a very good heat treating with it 2 Damascus blades And you had zero issue with it because you hit treat them exactly like tool steel It means this time around, they sold you Pakistan Damascus with mild steel pretty terrible